THESIS: More than Skin Deep: Tattoo Aesthetics in Design Culture

March 18, 2007

More than Skin Deep: Tattoo Aesthetics in Design Culture

By Diana Lien

Using one’s body as a canvas for artwork has been a growing trend in the United States. Art on the body has always fascinated and held people’s interest. This way of communicating a message and of personal expression has spread into mainstream society, and also has developed into an art form. With a greater demand for this type of aesthetic, technological advancements, as well as medical advancements, have paved a smoother course for the future of tattoos in design culture.

Tattoos, marks that are made by inserting pigment into the skin, technically known as dermal pigmentation, have visually and symbolically changed throughout the course of its history. Within different cultures, tattoos symbolized a great number of things: rites of passage, status, rank, religious and spiritual standing, marks of bravery, sexual lures, marks of fertility, pledges of love, punishment, amulets, talismans, protection, and as the marks of outcasts, slaves and convicts”[1]. As tattoos became more widespread through cultural awareness and understanding, they became more socially acceptable. Not only have tattoos become more welcomed into mainstream society, they have greatly contributed to design culture by reestablishing, enhancing, and creating new styles of communication.

BRIEF HISTORY. The term tattoo is believed to have come from the Samoan word tatau, which means to mark or strike twice. ‘Ta,’ meaning hand repeated twice as a reference to the repetition of the action of tattooing, and ‘u’ translating as color. During tattoos early years, tattoos were looked upon as taboo and not recognized as an artistic form of communication, even though tattooing occurred in almost every culture worldwide. Tattoos discovered on mummified and preserved bodies have been dated back to as early as 4500 BC with the earliest surviving examples of tattooed human skin coming from 12th-Dynasty Egypt. Other representational evidence also suggests that tattooing was practiced in Pre-dynastic and Early Dynastic Egypt [2]. Tattooing was also widespread among Polynesian peoples, and among certain tribal groups in the Philippines, Borneo, Africa, North America, South America, Mesoamerica, Europe, Japan, Cambodia and China [3]. Polynesian tattoos were considered the most elaborate and skillful. This tattoo style was brought to England when Captain Cook introduced intensely tattooed Polynesians to the country to show off their covered skins and significant cultural markings. This was when tattoos greatly interested royalty and the upper-class including the Furstenbergs, the Vanderbilts, Emperor Wilhelm II, and Lady Randolph Churchill [4]. This became an important transition in tattoo history because tattooees shifted from those of the minorities to socially elite people.

THE TECHNIQUE OF TATTOOING. Before Samuel O’Reilly patented the electric tattooing machine in 1891, tattoos were created by forcing pigment under the skin by sharpened sticks, pieces of ivory, or bone. This was a craft that involved applying the correct amount of pigment, and also the correct pressure with which to penetrate the skin to avoid scars or ruptured blood vessels [5]. With the electric tattooing machine, based off of Edison’s “electric pen”, tattoos could be more “delicate to details” and greater aesthetic possibilities opened up (Figure 1). Future advancements in technology will change the way tattoos are perceived and even “read.”

TATTOOS IN TRANSITION. In the Western world, tattoos became associated with the military, circus “freaks,” and fringe types--the prisoner, biker, military man, prostitute, fraternity boy, sports player, gangster, et cetera [6]. It was considered an “anti-social activity,” [7] and the upper classes began to turn away from tattoos. Despite the taboos and negative connotations that surrounded tattoos, this form of expression continued to become increasingly popular all over the world.

TATTOOS TODAY. Today, tattoos are more greatly recognized as a fine art and are appreciated more. Decorating or adorning one’s body has become extremely popular since television shows, magazines, advertisements and other media have represented tattoos in a positive way. This has attracted many newcomers to this form of personal expression. Design culture has also been greatly influenced by the growing popularity of self-expression through the art of tattoos. As the very successful Irish playwright Oscar Wilde quoted, “One must be a work of art, or wear a work of art” [8].

Negative connotations of tattooing in the United States are slowly diminishing as it becomes more popular among Americans. A survey conducted in April of 2000, by National Geographic News stated that 15% of Americans were tattooed, approximately 40 million people. The Harris Poll taken in 2003 estimated that 36% of people aged between 25 and 29 have one or more tattoos; and in 2006, the Journal of American Academy of Dermatology did a study that found 24% of Americans between the ages of 18 and 50 were tattooed, which is about one in four people [9]. Not only are tattoos becoming increasingly popular, multiple tattoos on a person are more common, as well as younger recipients; the 2006 survey showed that over one in three Americans between the ages of 18 and 29 have at least one tattoo [10]. With the growing number of people interested in tattoos, the demand for more intricate and unique designs is also rising.

Tattoos come in many different sizes and colors, and become a permanent “commitment” for many reasons. Personal and self-expressive tattoos can be seen in memorial, love and self-love, politics and religious tattoos (which are only a few different types of tattoos). People also “sport” tattoos as a way of overcoming grief, as the pain endured during the process of tattooing stimulates a healing process. Tattoos have changed the world emotionally, socially, spiritually and artistically.

Today, the “fastest growing demographic group seeking tattoo services… are middle-class suburban women” [11]. Tattoos are now considered by many to be a well-established art form, one that has developed into a sophisticated art. This is an art that combines imagery and technique, which has become a highly reproduced aesthetic style.

With the rise of this new art form, the term “tattoo-parlor” is being quickly replaced by “tattoo art studio.” These tattoo art studios usually feature “custom, fine art design; the ambiance of an upscale beauty salon; marketing campaigns aimed at middle-and upper middle-class professionals; and “by-appointment” services only.” According to Hoag Levins in the article The Changing Cultural Status of Tattoo Art, tattoo art studios also “draw the same kind of clientele as a custom jewelry store, fashion boutique, or high-end antique shop” [12]. This shows that tattoo artists are being recognized for their talents and creativity, as well as their craftsmanship.

TATTOO AS ART. Museums’ interest in the art of tattoo and its style have also increased. Across the country, “tattoo-related arts are studied and celebrated by leading museums, galleries, and art institutions” [13]. According to the article “Art Institute Conference Shows Tattoo Art Isn’t Just Skin Deep” by Joy Hakanson Colby, an art critic and art consultant, “the mainstreaming of the tattoo has produced a number of outstanding artists who have developed their own styles and are documenting their own history” [14]. The acknowledgement of the rise of tattooing as an art form in itself signifies a demand for this type of communication. Formal design elements, such as line, color, weight, shape, balance, rhythm and other design principles are taken into consideration when evaluating tattoos.

Tattoo artists also come together and share their skills through tattoo conventions and other tattoo related gatherings. An example of where tattoo meets fine arts and design is a special “performance” called the ArtFusion Experiment (Figure 2 - 3). The ArtFusion Experiment is a “collaborative gathering” and “public event intended to increase awareness of the tattoo artist’s capacity for fine art” [15]. This is a place where tattoo artists from around the world gather to share their fine art skills in an “extreme creative environment” [16].

[ArtFusion Experiment also brings about results of] “newfound unity between artists. Through the chaos…many harmonies reveal themselves. All egos are left at the door. All politics are forgotten. All territory is neutral. Language barriers cease to exist, as art is the universal language” [17].

TATTOOS AND THE COMMERCIAL WORLD. Body art has also become integrated into other aspects of our everyday lives. (Figure 4) Tattooing and body art design have come together with fine arts once again as tattooing “hit mainstream media.” Television shows like TLC’s “Miami Ink” (Figure 5) and A&E’s “Inked” (Figure 6), which are shows with a reality TV approach to the trade, show how artists approach a design from beginning to finish. Tattoo artists and the media have said that these shows have “helped the popularity and legitimacy of the culture spread” [18].

Tattoo art has flowed into mainstream ads. This once trendy and now common form of personal expression is showing up in magazine and online ads that sell a wide range of products “looking to communicate an image of hipness or edginess.” Ads that have included body art to visually appeal and stand out to consumers include Converse, Dodge, Juicy Couture, Captain Morgan Rum Co., and Camel [19].

Jim Schmidt, a creative director at the advertising firm Downtown Partners located in Chicago, stated that, “in a bid to communicate their messages to younger demographics, marketers are doing more than showcasing tattoo-covered models. We’re also applying tattoo culture’s aesthetic to graphic images and typefaces” [20].

The Dodge ad features a Dodge Caliber at a tattoo parlor getting a tattoo on its rear bumper, and ending with the slogan, “Anything but cute” (Figure 7). Captain Morgan’s also released a rum called “Tattoo” (Figure 8). These also show that there continues to be stereotype of the tattooed; a person able to endure pain, tough, and perhaps a drinker; a typical tough guy image.

Marshall Cohen, chief fashion analyst at the NPD group in New York, stated that, “it’s almost as if it is the next cool step, the subliminal rendering of tattoos through the typeface of a logo, the backgrounds or the artwork that’s incorporated into the advertisements themselves. It’s a subtle attempt to put tattoos in the message so consumers can interpret it how they want” [21]. Individual and social interpretation of the creative meanings behind tattoos gives each one a significant importance, and each person wears their ink in different manners. Being able to freely express themselves with ink, tattooees are able to claim their individuality, conform, or become a canvas.

TATTOO AND BODY AD SPACE. Tattoos’ influence in advertisements and media doesn’t stop at just digital and print ads. People are now selling body ad space. This brings up the controversy of tattoo as an art form. Who decides on what art is and what isn’t? Beauty has always been in the eye of the beholder, and with tattoos being used to advertise, where does the line between advertisement and art lie? An example of someone who sold her body as tattoo ad space is a mother named Kari Smith. She auctioned her forehead as ad space, space for a tattoo on eBay (Figure 9). The online gambling company in Mohawk Territory of Kahnawake, Canada Goldenpalace.com bought it for $10,000 [22]. There are several other auctions up for bid on eBay with similar subjects: body ad space for sale.

This is a new type of advertising, an advertising campaign that has become more popular by leaving permanent impressions on both the audience and the wearer of the advertisement itself.

TATOOS AND DESIGN. There are many influences on why a person would get tattooed. Tattoos are designs in and of themselves and people are always trying to be unique by creating “different” designs to freely express themselves. One of the more interesting designs are tattoos influenced by furniture design. People have been inspired to get tattoos of furniture (Figure 10). This shows that designs from different fields (industrial engineering, architecture, interior design, fashion design, et cetera) can be influenced by tattoos and their formal qualities. The tattoo aesthetic and means of getting a tattoo have also formed new processes in the development of designs. Tattoos can now also be viewed in a variety of ways, and in many different contexts.

An example of furniture that has been influenced by the visual aesthetics of tattoos is MINIMA. MINIMA is a company that designs and creates contemporary furniture and household items. They have incorporated tattoo designs and elements into some of their products. Figure (11) is a vintage Forasetti Tattoo Chair and Figure (12), bookends. The tattoo aesthetic is a growing trend and tattoos will continue to visually engage and appeal to different audiences, with different interests and tastes.

Body art has been inspiring artists from around the world to be creative in many different ways. Here are a set of Photoshop brushes created by Tasty Tattoo that were motivated by ink on skin (Figures 13 – 14). Brushes are vectored drawings that can be applied to digital art through brushes used in design software [23]. This is another approach by which people can freely and easily add tattoo aesthetics to their own ideas and designs. Integrating tattoo designs into their work allows for them to communicate and experiment with the aesthetic in different ways.

MORE ON TATTOOS. All around us, tattoos have influenced and given rise to variations of body art. When we go to the carnival, there are booths offering temporary tattoos, airbrush tattoos, t-shirts with tattoo inspired designs. Henna is also a popular semi-permanent tattoo style that has emerged from tattoos (Figure 15). Henna is the dye from dried, ground leaves of the plant lawsonia inermia, which comes in shades varying from pale brown to dark russet reds. This dye is used to stain the skin, hair, nails and clothes. This type of body art also has historical significance because henna was used to adorn the body for social and holiday celebrations [24]. Tattoo art is also seen off the skin and body by becoming printed onto fabrics, clothing, textiles, and equipment. Clothing brands like surf brands Roxy, Quiksilver, Split, snowboarding brands: Burton, Salomon, Dakine and others, have adopted the tattoo visual style into their own apparel line (Figure 16 – 17). Shapes in both outlined and solid forms are continuously seen depicting the flow, movement, energy, boldness, excitement and adventure of these extreme sports.

TATTOO PERMANENCE. Contemplation of the permanence of tattoos is also a reason why tattooees decide to experiment with temporary tattoos and designs before getting a permanent tattoo. Surveys have found that the reason people do not get tattoos is because of its permanence. This is also the reason why people decide to get private tattoos, tattoos that are not readily visible to the public.

A survey conducted by the Journal of American Academy of Dermatology in September of 2006 shows that with over one quarter of adults ages 18 to 50 in the United States currently having a tattoo, almost 30 percent had considered removing or covering the tattoo with a new one, or had already covered it [25].

A solution to this permanence can be in the inks used in tattooing. Bruce Klitzman of Duke University developed Freedom-2, an ink that has “actually been designed from a biological and material science point of view”, which are “safe pigments…trapped in harmless polymer shells…[that] dissolves biologically, leaving only the innocuous, invisible shells” once removed by laser [26]. This type of ink will allow for tattoo removal with a single treatment by laser (Figure 18). The non-permanence of this new ink will lead to a steady increase in the number of tattoos.

TEMPORARY TATTOOS AND EDUCATION. Not all tattoos have to be permanent. Examples of tattoos that are non-permanent are airbrush tattoos, temporary tattoos, and henna tattoos (also known as Mehndi). The original “temporary tattoo” were the ones, which were usually found in bubble gum wrappers. They were made with water-based inks and would blur with water contact. These tattoos were not very detailed and were usually blurry once applied to the skin. Today, temporary tattoos are made with vegetable dyes and a layer of glue similar to glue found in Band-aids. They can look extremely realistic and can last up to three week [27]. Temporary tattoos inspired a mother to create tattoos with an educational approach help toddlers learn to read. Toddlers are fascinated by the many colors, beautiful imagery and positive connotations of the “sporters” of ink. By combining educational graphics and tattoos, these body adornments have become a learning tool. An example of this is “Tattoo for Tots – Wear to Learn” (Figure 19 - 20). These are sets of “temporary tattoos with colorful designs and printed words, engaging children to make connections between letters and sounds” [28]. Now tattoos can be educational and as well as a part of the human body. These types of tattoos have reached to a younger audience and the creativity and art of tattoos can be appreciated even in toddler years.

TATTOOS IN GRAPHIC DESIGN. Just as graphic design has influenced tattoos, tattoos have also influenced graphic design. A new trend that has come into the light is the choice for expression through typographic messages requested by “affluent, culturally aware, sophisticated, and highly educated young people” [29]. Not only are “sporters of ink” sophisticated and educated, new tattoo artists themselves are “often design school grads with a broad knowledge of typographic choices” [30]. With this trend of new tattoos and tattoo artists, we can anticipate the future enthralled with aesthetically pleasing designs and messages that can be critiqued and admired, for both their visual qualities and symbolic meaning.

One graphic designer that uses tattoo as an inspiration in his work is artist Andrew Yoon. His fascination with tattoos and skin led him to create these expressive intimate pieces. Yoon describes his work:

The human form is a breathtaking thing. The texture of our skin, our curvatures, the placement of things, and so on. This project is the fruit of my fascination with the decoration of our skin. With most forms of body art, I found little innovation amongst most artists of whom create tattoos, scar tattoos, piercings, implants, and some extreme flesh manipulations. I discovered tremendous beauty and passion in painting the skin with light. Much more than I anticipated (Figures 21 - 24).

“And perhaps, his project is forbearer of future nano-technologies to come. Technologies that would one day provide a functional, wearable skin, capable of many beneficial amenities, and beautifully adorn the body with dynamic light,” stated a critic of Yoon’s work [31].

FUTURE OF TATTOOS. With advancements in the development of new colors and inks, such as UV black-light reactive and glow-in-the-dark inks, thoughts of “dynamic light” tattoos are becoming more of a reality than science-fiction. UV black-light reactive inks have given tattoos an out-of-this-world look to the human body as the skin illuminates under the correct lighting conditions (Figure 25). They can be easily hidden in the daytime so now tattooees can show off their ink whenever they please. These inks are giving people more control of their tattoos by choosing who may see them, which is also leading to more advanced ideas of communication through body art: nano-technology.

Nano-technology has given prospect to sub-dermal implants that can one day “transform” the skin into a living, digitalized canvas. Talks of interactive displays implanted under the skin that can sensor and react to light, changing temperatures, and other variables have created new fields of technical explorations and futuristic possibilities, such as 3D animations and movie clips, never before thought of as feasible in and on the human skin (Figure 26).

The collaboration of the movement in technology, art, and social structure, is making tattoos a changing entity in the design world. From advertisements, television shows, to furniture design and interactive body art, society is finally opening up to this medium of aesthetic art. Tattoos are changing the design world as we know it, and personal expression through the art of ink on skin will continue to evolve as a way of expressing self beauty.

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